Blacks Beach

Blacks Beach
Sunrise

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Longreach to Kununurra

Well, we have finally reached Kununurra which is really the start of our trip. We didn't stop at many places along the way as we wanted to get to Kununurra. The following is the tale of our trek from Longreach to Kununurra.

Sunday 22nd May 2011
After leaving Longreach we encountered a lot of heavy vehicles, mainly cattle trucks with three trailers. We even met one with 4 trailers. They mainly move between the mine sites. I have never seen so much road kill on the road. It would be a hillbillies banquet.
We stopped at a place called McKinlay for an ice cream. Its claim to fame is that it has the "Walkabout Creek Hotel" which was in the Crocodile Dundee movies.
We decided to stop for the night at Cloncurry at the Gilbert Park Hotel. Lo and behold, there is a notice in the bathroom about Australian Tree Frogs living in the toilet. They ask you just to ignore them when you flush as they just climb back under the rim and go back to sleep. Frog in bog, what a hoot.
We are also not very current with the news as you don't get todays papers until tomorrow and there is no TV signal. But I don't suppose we are missing out on much.

Driving into Mt Isa

Monday 23rd May 2011
We got away from Cloncurry about 10am as we had to catch up on some shopping and by the time we got away the road trains were on the road too. They were talking to us on the two way and they must be a different breed to the truckies at home as these ones don't swear. I find this amazing.
We stopped at a WW 2 Memorial on the side of the road for a cuppa and were joined by this old pain in the backside bloke. He was actually trying to sponge a feed of us as he couldn't be bothered making his own. Ray and I just pretended we didn't know what he was on about and he went back to his car and drove on. It certainly takes all types. We ended up stopping at Camooweal which is just before the Queensland/NT border. You had to go into the pub to pay for the caravan park and Ray very quickly volunteered to do that job.

Tuesday 24th May 2011
We headed across the Barklay Highway and it was pretty windy. We pulled up early at Wonorah Bore. Until the early 1940's the road going from Mt Isa to Three Ways was a dirt track. When the Americans were here during WW2 they had a lot of camps in the north of Australia and they improved the road to make getting between the camps easier. In the early 1950's the government decided to seal the road. There are many rest areas set up at what used to be road worker camps. They had to sink bores to get water and Wonorah bore is one of these old camps. The windmill to drive the bore is broken but there is still plenty of water in the dam. There are heaps of zebra finches hunting around for seed. By the time late afternoon came there were about 25 caravans and camper vans around us. A very popular place.

Sunset at Wonorah Bore

Camped beside the bore

The view from the caravan door at Wonorah Bore
Ray did his good samaritan bit a couple of times He helped an old fellow to fix a car he was towing behind a bus. Then another caravanner was driving down the road and we heard this terrible grinding noise. His water tank under his van had come loose on one side and as trailing on the road. So Ray helped him get it back on by cutting some fence wire and tying up the water tank. Not long after this we witnessed a beautiful sunset.

Wednesday 25th May 2011
We got away very early as it had been a cold night and we wanted to get going. We headed for Three Ways, which is the intersection of the Stuart and Barklay Highways. Turn left and you head to Tennant Creek, Alice Springs and Adelaide. Turn right and you head to Katherine and Darwin. We turned right and went to Banka Banka Station which is a pastoral station about 70 km from Three Ways. We have stayed there before and decided to stay for 2 nights. The last time we stayed there it was owned by the Kidman family but apparently they sold it to The Aboriginal Land Council, a federal government body. They are going to turn it into a training facility for stockmen etc. It is still a very pretty place with lots of character.

The view of the campground at Banka Banka Station.

Road train going past Banka Banka Station
We met some great people there round the campfire including a mother and son, Simon and Marcia who were travelling from Adelaide to Darwin and then Marcia was going to fly back to Adelaide.
More good samaritan work. A fellow had a flat tyre on his Motorhome and didn't have to tools to get the wheel off???? So Ray helped him with the assistance of a fellow from Tassie who happened to be a mechanic. Then he had a flattening tyre so they fixed that. Then a poor fellow limped in on a Harley. He had just had a service done in Alice Springs and some problems occurred and oil was spraying everywhere. So Bob the mechanic and Ray were able to help him luckily as we were a long way from Harley help. After about two hours the fellow continued  on his way to Darwin.

Friday 27th May 2011
We got away early and headed up the highway turning off the highway to go into Daly Waters.
Daly Waters was named in 1861 after the governor of SA, Sir Dominic Daly. The area wasn't actually occupied until the 1920's when Bill and Rita Pearce opened a drovers store which is now the Daly Waters pub.
The airfield at Daly Waters was Australia's first international airport when it opened its hangar doors for the Australia to England air race.
We are in the caravan park beside the pub. Each night they have a beef and barra feed in the pub. You can have beef only or barra only or a mixture of both so we took all barra.
The pub is amazing. Very old and there are all sorts of mementos hanging on the walls. Undies, bras, hats, money from all over the world, badges, caps. I didn't give them my undies as thay would have taken up too much room and I wanted to leave room for the undies of all of the skinny back packers working in the pub.
We went over for happy hour about 4.30pm and were joined by Simon and Marcia, the mother and son from Banka Banka. After dinner was over they asked Ray and Maura to come up on the stage??? It turns out that for every 1000th beef and barra meal sold you get you money back. So Ray and I were the 2000th beef and barra meal sold for 2011. Not bad for a little pub off the beaten track. We got our money back, plus a bottle of red and a plaque. The plaque is made by Chilli, who is the entertainer at the pub and we went over to his shop the next morning and he engraved it with our names. A nice souvenir. We also bought his CD as he was a pretty good entertainer.

The campground at Daly Waters

The plaque which was part of our prize

A monitor lizard swimming across the creek at Daly Waters

Bar at Daly Waters
Beef and Barra BBQ area
Outside Daly Waters Pub


Saturday 28th May 2011
We had breakfast at the pub the next morning and got talking to a lovely English girl who is travelling around Oz with her boyfriend and both of them were offered work and decided to stop a while. Apparently if they are on a working visa and work for 88 days in a rural area they get an extra 12 months work visa. That is why there are so many English and Irish travellers working out in the bush.
We got way about 9am and headed on to the Buchanan Highway to Top Springs. The highway is just red  dust and gravel and by the time we reached Top Springs we were covered in red dust. But the van is air tight that we had hardly any dust inside.

Buchanan Highway
The caravan park at Top Springs is also the pub, service station and shop. The pub isn't allowed to sell any take away alcohol until Monday as there was a riot at the Kalkarindji (Wave Hill) settlement the Friday week before and the authorities stopped Top Springs selling the grog as that was probably where the aboriginals had got it. Consequently there were a few aboriginals camped outside the servo waiting for the grog on Monday. They are harmless though just fighting amongst themselves.

Sunday 29th May 2011
Today we are heading to Timber Creek on the Victoria Highway which is the main drag from Katherine to Kununurra. It was a great drive. The road was a bit rougher than yesterday, sometimes narrowing down to nothing more than a goat track. We crossed lots of creeks but the deepest was only about 30cm  so we had no problems. We saw lots of Brahman cattle, eagles and roos There was beautiful scenery all along the drive including the Jaspers Gorge with soaring red cliffs.

Brahman Bull

Buchanan Highway getting narrower

Dashwood Crossing

Jaspers Creek

Jaspers Gorge
 We checked into the Timber Creek Caravan Park and when we took a walk down to the creek some employees came along to feed the crocs in the creek!!!!. More travellers. This time they were Irish girls from County Cork out here on a working holiday. Fish, turtles and crocs were fed.

Monday 30th May 2011
Today we got to Kununurra. We took some photos of the Victoria River which flows through Timber Creek and also stopped at Saddle Rest Area to take some photos of the ranges. Every creek we went over had water flowing through it. We cleared the quarantine check point and lost a carrot and some cauliflower. That was all of the vegies we had left. We have checked into the Kimberleyland caravan park. Made me think we were going to Wally World. But no, it is very nice. We have a great spot beside the pool and we have booked in for a week to have a good look around.

Tuesday 31st May 2011
Today we decided we would just have a look around Kununurra. We went for a drive out to Ivanhoe Crossing. We knew that it was closed but we just wanted to have a look. Well when we got there the Ord River was roaring. It was way over the concrete causeway. In fact the road closed sign was nearly submerged.

Ivanhoe Crossing south side

Ivanhe Crossing north side
We then drove around the long way to the other side of the crossing and took a few photos. The locals say that Ivanhoe Crossing will not open this season due to the amount of water in the lakes. On the way back we crossed a creek and stopped to take a few photos of a small waterfall. There is water everywhere.

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