Burketown to Normanton

Wednesday 6th August
Another lovely day. We left Burketown heading to Gregory River. We had been told about a free camp down from the hotel at Gregory River. There is a sign saying No Camping but when we got there, there were about 30 campers there already. Apparently the sign is to cover the council in case the river floods but there was no chance of that as they haven't had rain in months. We parked on the upper level of the river bed and the river is flowing through about 40metres in front of us.
On the journey here we passed hundreds of cattle and a lot of Brolgas

This is a big paper bark gum just beside us at Gregory river

Looking down on the lower level of the camp site where you can see some vans parked right on the river bank

Looking back from the old bridge at some of the campers

Ray enjoying a beer on the verandah of the Gregory Hotel. It is a really old pub but seems to do a good trade with passers by and campers.

Looking down at the river. You could get in the water about 200metres upstream and float down to just past the old bridge and climb out and do it again. Ray did it but I chickened out as the current was very fast.

Another view of the river.

This is a picture of a log stuck in a tree abut 20metres off the ground. It got up there in the 2010 wet season.

If you look closely you can see the log in the tree above the caravan. In that wet season the whole camping area was underwater to that depth.

This is the fire Ray lit in the brazier. We didn't need it for warmth, just for atmosphere.

Everywhere we go we make friends with a dog. This is Jenga, the boxer, who belongs to the barman at the Gregory Hotel.

Maura at the camp site at Gregory River

Ray beside his fire.
















We stayed at Gregory River for 2 nights before moving on to Normanton. Normanton was established by William Landsborough in 1868 as a port for the Gulf's cattle industry and then was the port for the Croydon gold rush in the late 1800's.There are still 3 pubs in town and the most well known of these is  the famous Purple Pub.
The Normanton-Croydon railway line was opened in 1981 and a weekly service was run to service the gold miners. But gradually the gold ran out and the town quietened down.
There are some amazing wetlands around town with brolgas, sarus cranes, magpie geese, jabirus and a multitude of other water birds.

Lets start with some food pictures. This is the fish and chips for $15 at the Albion Hotel in Normanton. Fresh whiting no less.They have a choice of about 20 meals for $15 on Tight Arse Tuesdays. The place was packed. And what's more  their house sauvignon blanc was Oyster Bay. I couldn't get better than that.

Next one was lunch at The Purple Pub. A fish wrap and the fish was a grilled fillet of fresh barramundi. It was yummy.

And this is the infamous Purple Pub, run by a woman. If she thinks you need a shower she won't serve you until you go and get yourself cleaned up. It could only happen in the Gulf.

Here I am waiting for lunch. Even the tables are purple.

Cheers from the Albion Hotel, Normanton

And cheers from Ray also.

This is a life size replica of a croc called Krys which was shot near Normanton in  1955. It was shot by a female crocodile hunter called Krystina. It is over 8.3metres long.

Another shot of Krys

And here I am sitting beside Krys.

Some Brolgas moving across the wetlands on the outskirts of Normanton. You couldn't get very close as they are very shy

A white heron feeding in the wetlands

A couple of magpie geese.

Ray standing beside the crocodile warning sign.

The Norman River Bridge at Normanton

Waterlillies in the wetlands

This is a shot looking over the wetlands.













Monday 11th August
Today we decided to go for a drive out to Karumba Point and Karumba. We had heard that the place gets packed with lots of fisher folk as the Norman river flows through Karumba and enters the Gulf of Carpentaria at Karumba Point.

This is the Norman River at Karumba. It is so blue

Looking out at a couple of fishing boats

The Norman River at Karumba looking towards Karumba Point

This is looking out to the Gulf of Carpentaria from Karumba Point. We met a really nice fellow who lives in a house with this view. His wife is the local midwife and spends time between Karumba and Burketown and he is retired and just relaxes here at Karumba Point. The house they live in is supplied with his wife's job so he is on easy street.

This is the cars and trailers at the boat ramp. There were 3 rows like this absolutely full. And we were told the fishing was no good. I think someone forgot to tell these blokes.
We bought a slab of Spanish mackerel for $25 which when we cut it up will do the both of us for 4 meals. We also bought a kilo of prawns which were $22 a kilo and very nice too.

Finally Leaving Katherine

Saturday 26th July

Well we finally are leaving Katherine today. had dinner out last night at The Big Fig Bistro at the park. Very nice. They make a beautiful Mango Daiquiri. We are only going 100km down the road to Mataranka. We decided to stay at Mataranka Cabins and Camping as it is the closest to Bitter Springs which are supposedly the nicest springs. Mataranka Springs have been concreted and just look like a backyard swimming pool.
We got to Mataranka just before lunch and have a great spot in the shade, which is just as well as it is very hot. After lunch we walked down to Bitter Springs for a look and they are beautiful.

This is looking down the Roper River. The water here is a constant 34 degrees. You take a swimming noodle and get in the pool and float down about 200metres then climb out up steps, walk across the bridge and walk about 100 metres back and start again.

This is Ray floating down the river. He is in the middle of the group of people. Its not usually so crowded but this was mid morning.

 
 

This beautiful lotus flower was blooming on the banks of the river.

 This is me swimming in the springs. This was about 7am and the water was lovely.

I had just got out of the water and you can see the pool behind me

Reflections of the pandanus in the water
We stayed at Mataranka for 3 nights and went for a drive down to Mataranka Springs for a look. It was very crowded with about 40 people in the pool and it was just like a big concrete circle  filled with water. Glad we went to Bitter Springs instead.






Next was the Hi Way Inn for an overnight stop only. It is a camping area behind a roadhouse but very quiet. A couple of pigs were grazing in a paddock behind us.

We had a funny experience here. We went into the roadhouse/pub for tea and while eating were joined by another couple who had been drinking at the bar. Got their life story, where the kids lived, that they were going to be in our home area for Xmas. More or less a potted life history. They were pretty pissed and drinking red wine. She was eating like she had never been fed in her life. So we quickly finished dinner and went back to the van. Anyway next day when we moved on to Cape Crawford and the Heartbreak Hotel, who should come into the caravan park and park near us but them. Ray said hello and how were they. They didn't even remember ever seeing us before. They didn't have a clue, so we didn't bother to enlighten them. We did notice though that they had a very quiet night. I WONDER WHY???

On Thursday 31st July we headed from Cape Crawford to Borroloola. On the way some idiot threw up a big stone because he didn't bother to slow down on the gravel. We now have a very big stone chip which we will probably not get fixed until Cairns. Lucky we had a little sticker to put over it to keep it clean.
Borroloola was quite nice, lovely caravan park. Big indigenous population. Lots of communities both in town and on the outskirts. Has a big school and 2 small supermarkets, one owned by the aboriginal community with lots of fresh supplies. Very strict alcohol rules. We don't know how the pub makes money. You can only drink at the pub if you are having a meal also and they are not allowed to sell takeaway grog. The take away bottle shop only sells between 2.45pm and 5pm and before being served you have to show your licence and get breath tested. The reading has to be zero. And you can only get one carton or 2 bottles of wine.
Consequently we never seen anyone who was drunk.

On the first day we went to the take away shop and had fresh barra and chips for lunch. $12 and it fed both of us and was very nice.
We spent the next 2 days sight seeing.

This is the loading facility at Bing Bong, which is about 50km north of Borroloola. It services the local mines. They ship out iron ore and silver, lead and zinc on small boats out to larger boats anchored in the Gulf of Carpenteria.

This is Mule Creek which is just around from Bing Bong. People launch their boats her to go fishing in the Gulf. There are a lot of big crocs around here.

This is Batten Point near King ash Bay. King Ash Bay is a local fishing place originally started by the Borroloola Fishing Club. Now it is packed with campers and fisherpeople for most of the year. people come from all over Australia to fish here.

 



More views of the McArthur River at Batten Point

















The next day we had a look at the sights a bit closer to town

A water bird on a branch over the river. I wonder if he knows what is lurking below

The council boat ramp on the McArthur River near Borroloola

The crocodile trap on the river at Borroloola. There are two rogue crocs in the river at present. One is 6 metres long and the other is 4.5metres long. No swimming in this river

This is the other croc trap at Rocky Creek boat ramp

An old rusty hulk left high and dry

Looking down the McArthur River. It is about 40km to the Gulf from here.
 We also visited the local museum which tells the history of Borroloola. Some wild things have happened in the past. We met a lady in the caravan park whose brother was the policeman in Borroloola from 1985 to 1988 and they had to find and shoot a big croc after it had taken a man as he lay drunkenly asleep on the banks of the river. Gruesome stuff.



Next we were driving to a place called Hells Gate which is about 40km over the border into Queensland. It was about 300km and the road was very corrugated and there were a lot of water crossings. We left Borroloola about 8am and got to Hells Gate about 3pm.  Some nice scenery on the way though.

This is taken out the passenger window of the car while driving across Weangan River

This is crossing the Robinson River. This was the deepest with the water up to the running boards on the truck

This is Calvert Creek. Extremely beautiful and someone had even built a little cairn in the creek.

A beautiful bull just grazing on the side of the road. There was a big herd with him but he seemed to be in charge.

Hells gate got its name because in the late 1800's police would guarantee travellers safety until this point. After that you were on your own.








Next stop Burketown. It was formally gazetted a town in 1865. It was named after Robert O'Hara Burke who made the first successful south - north crossing of Australia even if it was ultimately fatal. Cattle farming and mining are the main pastimes in Burketown today as well as tourism and fishing.
We had a nice trip from Hells Gate to Burketown only coming over about 40km of dirt. But that was bull dust which got into everything even coming up through the drainage holes in the bathroom floor. Consequently the van needed a good clean inside when we got here.

Approaching the Gregory River Crossing on the way from Hells Gate to Burketown.

Looking down the Gregory River from the crossing

The Albert River from the town wharf which is a very popular fishing spot

The Albert River near the bridge on the Normanton Road.

A Boiling Down works was established by the Edkins Brothers and tallow was loaded onto boats. A second boiling down works was planned but failed when the boat carrying the new machinery went aground in the river. This is all that remains of the original works after it exploded in the 1890's.

Some more old machinery from the Boiling Down works

Ray having a beer while waiting for lunch at the Burketown Hotel. this is a beautiful new hotel rebuilt after the old one burnt down in 2012. This one is very modern and serves a nice meal too.












Tomorrow we go down to a free camp at Gregory River for 2 nights and then we will go up to Normanton for a few nights so I will blog again from there.
Don't forget to put some comments in as I am unsure if anyone is reading it.