Crossing the Nullabor

Ray and I have crossed the Nullarbor twice before. Once with his Mum and Dad in the early 80's and then again 10 years ago when we went to the west for a quick holiday. Both of those times we were on a time limit as we had to get back to work. This time we both wanted to take our time and free camp at a few spots on the way. So this is what we planned. Terry and Sue were with us so we had great company, we were all fuelled up, had enough fresh vegies to do us until we got to the quarantine point, so off we went.
We left Esperance on Saturday morning and headed north to Norseman. On the way we stopped at a little village called Grass Patch, which had been built as a soldier settlement. We took some photos of a couple of memorials in the village and also a model at the entrance to Grass Patch.

Memorial to women pioneers at Grass Patch

Town Entry sign to Grass Patch

Soldiers Memorial at Grass Patch

We then headed on to Norseman and then turned right on to the Nullabor. we decided to stop at a free camp called Wooralba Rest Area. We weren't the first ones to stop as threre was a fellow there cycling across the Nullabor and he had stopped there for the night. By the time it got dark there were about 20 other campers. It was OK but a bit noisy from the trucks going past and it got very cold.

Our camp site at Wooralba

Next day we got away about 8.30am and headed to Caiguna Roadhouse where we stopped for morning tea before going to Cocklebiddy for an ice cream. We stopped at Madura Bluff to take a picture of the view.



View from Madura Lookout



We then went down the pass to Madura Roadhouse and stopped for lunch. Each of the roadhouses are about 150km apart and in between them are the free camp areas. There is not much at the roadhouses, a service station and general store as well as a bar. There is also a barren looking caravan park and a few dongas (these are a basic room and toilet). The free camp area usually have a few trees and an environmentally friendly composting toilet so these are actually the better option. We don't eat at the road houses, we just stop there to make a sandwich or something.

Driving along the Nullabor

We then carried on and stopped at Moorinda Bluff Rest area for the night. We were the first ones here, but not for long as it was quite full by nightfall. We had started to put our clocks forward. First by 45 minutes to Central Western time so we had a bit extra light that evening.

Next morning we got away about 8.30am but before we left we put the clocks forward 1 hour and 45 minutes as that would be the time when we got to SA which was only about 60km further on. So it was really 10.15am.

We stopped at Eucla for fuel, got some bread rolls and went down to the Old Telegraph Station to have lunch.

Road down to the Old Telegraph Station

Old Telegraph Station

Garden at Eucla Roadhouse

Statue in garden at Eucla Roadhouse

Caravan convoy parked at the Old Telegraph Station

After leaving Eucla we arrived at Border Crossing where we crossed into South Australia. We didn't have to surrender our fruit and vegetables just yet. We were allowed to keep them until we got to the quarantine check point at Ceduna.

After this we started to pull into all of the scenic look outs along the Great Australian Bight looking for a suitable one to spend the night. A lot of them have been closed to overnight campers as the parking area has been made quite small because the cliffs are getting eroded away and for safety reasons they have put fences across only leaving a small area to park. We finally pulled into Bunda Cliffs Lookout and parked for the night. We were soon joined by about another 10 caravans, motorhomes and campers (we call them Whizz Bangs, because that is the noise made when the sliding door is closed). It was a lovely spot with about a 100 metre walk out to the lookout.

View along Bunda Cliffs

What a funny afternoon it turned out to be. Most of the people got together for a drink before tea, just sitting around outside the van. One lady travelling on her own in a motorhome was travelling west and as she looked a little mouse got out of her motorhome and started to run around. Everyone was chasing it and it suddenly ran back and got back into her van. Well, she was trying to get it out, all to no avail. Later that evening Terry got out of his van and said that the ground was covered in mice. Next morning we were talking to the motor home and Whizz Bang travellers and they had heaps of mice in their vans all night. One lady killed 13. There has been a mice plague in SA and there are certainly a lot in that part of the Nullabor. Thank heaven we didn't get any in the van. We are all sealed up underneath so water doesn't get in so that stopped the mice getting in.

Anyway after this excitement we got away about 9.30am and as were driving down the road there was dead, squashed mice everywhere.

Next stop was at the last scenic lookout over the Bunda Cliffs before you head away from the Bight again. What a magnificent view.

Terry, Sue, Ray and Maura with Bunda Cliffs in background

We then made tracks further east. The Nullabor this year is beautiful. Because there has been so much rain there are shrubs and trees growing everywhere. It is a sight that you don't see very often as it is usually quite barren.

We were going to stay overnight at Fowlers Bay so we turned off the main road to drive in. It was quite a pretty drive in over the causeway to town, with big sand dunes towering over us. When we got there though, it was blowing a gale and the stench of the rotten seaweed was nearly unbearable so we decided to go back to the main road and stay in Penong.

So we went back to the highway and headed to Penong. All around the area there are wheat fields and this time of the year the wheat is being harvested so there are a lot of trucks on the road. We also got passed by a lot of Harley bikes. When we were driving from Bremer Bay to Esperance last week there were lots of Harleys going the opposite direction. Apparently they had their annual convention in Margaret River last weekend and when we saw them near Penong they were on their way back home.

We stayed at Penong for one night before heading to Streaky Bay for a few days.

Esperance

We moved from Bremer Bay to Esperance on Tuesday 15th November. We met up with Terry and Sue at the Esperance Seafront Caravan park. It is a great park overlooking the Southern Ocean and about 2km from the town centre. Esperance is surrounded on the water side by the Recherche Archipelago which consists of about 105 islands. Most of these islands are uninhabited but are a home for sea lions and many types of birds.It is a very pretty place with two National Parks, Cape Le Grand to the east and Cape Arid to the west.

On Wednesday, although it was a bit overcast we decided to go out to Cape Le Grand. We knew that there were a couple of camp spots out there so we went to have a look. The first stop was Le Grand Beach. The camp spots were very small and lots of flies around.
We then drove out to Rossiter Bay and then to Lucky Bay. Lucky Bay was beautiful with fantastic white beaches and clear water.

Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand

We stopped at a lookout and I saw a flower called a Fringed Lily. Extremely beautiful.

Fringed Lily

Once again there were flies everywhere so we were glad that we had decided to stay in town. On the way out we stopped and took some photos of Frenchman's Peak. We think it is called that because from a certain angle the rock is supposed to look like a Gallic, Frenchman's nose.

Frenchman's Peak

After coming back to camp in the afternoon, Ray and Terry went down to the jetty to try and catch some squid but it started to rain and they came home. While there they took a photo of a sea lion which resides under the jetty. He is called Sammy. Sometimes he is there and sometimes not, but him and his partner sleep there in the shade of the jetty.

Sammy the Sea Lion says Hello

On Thursday we had a lovely clear day and went for a drive west, out along Great Ocean Drive. First stop was the Rotary Lookout which looks out over Esperance and the islands of the Recherche Archipelago. It is a spectacular view.

Esperance from Rotary Lookout

Recherche Archipelago

 We then drove to various beaches and lookouts around the coast. Blue Haven Beach, Salmon Beach, Twilight Beach, Picnic Beach. Observation Point and Nine Mile Beach.

Blue Haven Beach

Friday we caught up with washing and shopping as we are heading to Norseman tomorrow and then across the Nullabor.
We stopped at Tank Jetty on the way into town to see if Sammy the Sea Lion was there and he was. He was having a little snooze under the jetty. It is amazing that no one disturbs him.

Esperance Harbour

Sammy Sea Lion snoozing

Anyway this will probably be the last blog for a week or so as we are unlikely to get a signal while crossing the Nullabor.

Tail end of Albany and Bremer Bay

We are still in Albany and it is Thursday 10th November. We went to have a look at the first day of the sheepdog trials but we were only there about 40 minutes when it started to rain so we came home. We have decided we are leaving here on Saturday, parcel or no parcel. We went to try to find out where it was and were told that they can forward it on when it shows up in Albany. So even though Albany is a nice place, it is time to move on. We went to have a look at the ANZAC Memorial which was erected to remember the mounted soldiers who served in WW 1 from 1916 - 1918. It is right up on top of a hill overlooking Albany.

It is now Saturday and we are heading to Bremer Bay. We sat out in the sun all afternoon and it was lovely. We decided to go for a look around on Sunday and before that we went to the local shop and bumped into some Bushtracker people. They told us that the Fitzgerald National Park was closed from the Bremer Bay side and as it is about 120km to get around to the entrance on the other side we decided not to do that this time. When we were here 10 years ago, there are quite unique wildflowers in the park and we were going to look for them again. But not this time.
Instead we decided to go and have a gander at some of the beach areas. First we drove out to Point Henry and a lovely little beach called Little Boat Harbour.

Then on to Native Dog Beach and Blossom Beach. At Native Dog Beach the surf was pounding on the rocks but the sand is so white you could see many different colours in the water.

Blossom Beach

Then we drove up to Tooreburrup lookout where there were 360 degree views of the area. Although you are surrounded by native bush, there are houses scattered all over the area. All on 3 or 4 hectares and some are mansions, some are small beach houses and one we looked at resembles a pizza oven!!!

Next stop was Fishery Beach marina, where the fishing fleet is based.

We then came back to Bremer Bay and went up to the lookout closer to town.

Today, Monday, has not been nice. It is quite windy and cool. We are just hanging around the van today before we move to Esperance tomorrow.

Denmark and Albany

We are now in Albany after spending a few days in Denmark. At Denmark we set up camp at a caravan park right on Wilson Inlet. It turned out to be very windy as the wind was blowing in straight off the water and bringing with it the smell of rotten seaweed. The wind eases off at night but is back with a vengeance in the morning.
We had a very quiet Melbourne Cup Day with Terry and Sue. We watched the race on televsion and then went over to the camp kitchen and had our Melbourne Cup Luncheon, a BBQ. Sue and I did put our fascinators on with our ordinary clothes. But we had a good afternoon. The Cup was on here at 12noon as we are 3 hours behind NSW. The Western Australians don't seem to worry about the race too much.

Melboune Cup Day

Fascinating Fascinators

Preparing Melbourne Cup Day lunch

Terry and Sue left for Albany on Wednesday and Ray and I went for a drive around the Denmark area.
We drove out to Ocean Beach where the Wilson Inlet runs into the sea. We drove out to a couple of lookouts. We also visited a chocolate place and also the Denmark Cheese Factory where we sampled and bought some lovely cheese.

The calmest part of the day at Denmark, sunrise

Sunrise at Denmark

Greens pool

Lights Beach











Wilson Inlet running into the ocean

On the Thursday we moved to Albany and it has rained ever since. We have had rain, wind, thunder, lightening and hail. Besides the weather Albany is a lovely place. It used to be a big whaling centre but the last whale was caught in 1978. It has a beautiful safe harbour called Princess Royal Harbour. During the First World war, all of the troops leaving Australia and New Zealand for Gallipolli gathered on ships in King George Sound at Albany to sail together in convoy to Gallipolli. Apparently in 2014 and 2015 the government has given Albany money to help celebrate the centenary of Gallipolli.

King George Sound from Princess Royal Fortress

Guard House at Princess Royal Fortress

Merchant Navy Memorial

They have a memorial on top of the hill overlooking the harbour. It is built on the site of the old Princess Royal Fortress which was built to defend the harbour. It  was felt that if Australia ever lost this strategic port to any enemy it would be a major threat to the security of Australia. So the fortress was set up in 1893.

In the afternoon we drove out to the east of Albany to have a look at Two Peoples Bay and Little Beach. It is a very pretty area with lots of crystal clear water and beautiful white sand beaches. You just have to pray for some sunny weather to enjoy it. The locals say if you wait 5 minutes the weather will change.

Little Beach just outside Albany

We drove into town and had alook around the harbour area. There is a memorial down near the water dedicated to the nurses who have served in war. It is surrounded by beautiful rose gardens.

We have booked in to stay in Albany until at least Saturday as we are waiting for a parcel to be delivered and the WA wait awhile mail is a bit slow. We are still having bad weather and in one day we got rain, wind, thunder, lightening and hail.

I will do mre blogging in a couple of days.